Grayscale or pure black and white?
“Black and white” means two different things, and the search for it shows it: half the people want a classic black-and-white photo, the other half add “no grey” because the tool they tried gave them grey. This page does both and is explicit about which one you get.
| You want | Choose | What the file contains |
|---|---|---|
| A black-and-white photo for printing, framing or posting | Grayscale | Up to 256 shades, 8-bit grayscale PNG or single-channel JPG |
| A stencil, stamp, vinyl or cutting-machine design, a signature, a logo | Pure black and white | Exactly two colours, 1-bit PNG |
| A photo for a laser engraver, thermal printer or fax-style document | Black and white dots | Two colours arranged as dots that read as grey from a distance |
Why reds and blues go muddy elsewhere
Turning colour into grey needs a rule for how bright each colour is. The rules most tools use are shortcuts, and they disagree badly on saturated colours. We measured them in Chrome on pure colours (0 is black, 255 is white):
| Colour | Average of R, G, B | TV formula on stored values (BT.601) | CSS grayscale() | This page |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pure red | 85 | 76 | 54 | 127 |
| Pure green | 85 | 150 | 182 | 220 |
| Pure blue | 85 | 29 | 18 | 76 |
| Yellow | 170 | 226 | 237 | 247 |
| Brick red (200, 30, 40) | 90 | 82 | 67 | 102 |
The averaging rule makes red, green and blue the same grey, which is obviously wrong. The other two apply brightness weights to the stored pixel values, but those values are gamma-encoded, not amounts of light, so saturated colours come out far too dark: a red rose turns nearly black, a blue sky turns into a dark slab. This page converts each pixel to linear light first, weighs the channels there (the sRGB standard's own weights), and converts back. The result is exactly the lightness that a colour meter reports as CIELAB L* — we checked all ten colours on our test chart against it, and mid grey stays exactly 128.
Colour filters, as on black-and-white film
Black-and-white photographers screw a coloured filter onto the lens to decide which colours turn light and which turn dark. The filter menu does the same with the channel weights, and white always stays white:
- Red turns blue sky almost black and makes clouds pop; skin becomes smooth and pale. On our chart, brick red went from 102 to 181 and pure blue from 76 to 0.
- Yellow is the gentle version: a little more contrast in skies.
- Green lightens leaves and grass for landscapes.
- Blue darkens reds and skin tones for a moody, gritty look.
Pure black and white, with no grey
Every pixel lighter than the black and white point becomes white, every darker one black. The point is chosen automatically from the picture's own brightness histogram (Otsu's method, which finds the split that best separates the dark and light parts), and the slider overrides it. On our test photo the automatic point was 135 of 255 and made 29% of the picture black.
Saved as PNG, the result is written as a 1-bit image — one bit per pixel — and the page opens the saved file again and counts its colours, so you can see it really is only pure black and pure white. That matters for cutting machines and engraving software that trace the outline, and for forms that ask for a black-and-white signature. Transparent backgrounds stay transparent. If you choose JPG, the page warns you: JPG compression always adds grey pixels along the edges.
Logos: keep the yellow
Deciding by brightness has one big trap with logos: yellow, orange and pastel colours are nearly as bright as white paper, so a black-and-white point that suits the rest of the logo turns them white. On our four-colour test logo the yellow and light-blue parts disappeared completely, and on a transparent logo an orange block turned white — invisible once printed. The Logo style asks a different question for each pixel: is it paper, or is it colour? Every clearly coloured pixel becomes solid black, however light it looks, and white details inside the mark stay white. Set Ink to white for a version for dark backgrounds. The full test is in how to make a logo black and white.
Dots: grey shades with only two colours
Newspapers, laser engravers and thermal receipt printers can only put down ink or no ink. Dithering fakes the shades with patterns of dots. Smooth (Floyd–Steinberg) spreads each pixel's rounding error to its neighbours and keeps the most detail; on our test photo, averaged over 4×4 pixel squares, it was within 8 brightness steps of the grayscale version. Crisp (Atkinson, the method of the original Macintosh) spreads only part of the error, so highlights and shadows stay clean and edges stay sharp, at the cost of some midtone detail.
Smaller files that really are grayscale
Many converters save a grey picture as an ordinary colour file in which red, green and blue happen to be equal. This page writes real grayscale files instead. For the same 640×420 test photo:
| File | Size |
|---|---|
| Grey picture saved as a colour PNG | 204 KB |
| Grayscale PNG (this page) | 167 KB |
| Grayscale JPG, quality 90 (this page) | 63 KB |
| Dithered, 1-bit PNG | 22–29 KB |
| Pure black and white, 1-bit PNG | 3.7 KB |
Besides the size, editors, print shops and upload checkers see a grayscale file as grayscale, with no colour channels to second-guess.
Related tools
To grey out a whole PDF for printing, use PDF to grayscale. To hide part of a photo before sharing it, Pixelate image; to make a white background see-through after converting a logo, Make background transparent; and if a form wants the result under a certain size, Compress image to an exact size.